Penne Alla Norma (or, the best pasta experience of my life)

I’m not religious, but I definitely have a penchant for the spiritual; superb music and food (OK, and perhaps sex) often inspire ethereal metaphors and during our trip through Sicily, I found myself uttering more than my share of gastronomical hallelujahs.

Prior to our arrival on Italy’s southern island, as budget travellers, we’d prided ourselves on self-catering. That game plan went out the window in Sicily though; the standard of dining was simply too good!

As a vegetarian and lifelong pasta fanatic, the Sicilian favourite Penne Alla Norma was a consistent source of pleasure. The dish’s primary ingredients are eggplant, salted ricotta and tomatoes, and legend has it, the dish was named after Italian composer Vincenzo Bellini’s opera “Norma”.

I made a point of sampling it wherever possible, and, in true Italian style, the highlight came from a cheap and cheerful restaurant along the Ristorante Porta Marina da Salvo on the northwest side of Siracusa’s Ortigia island (see map).

‘Sumptuous’ isn’t a word I’d naturally use to describe pasta, but it fitted this dish to a tee; the robust combination of tomatoes and eggplant contrasted deliciously with the salty ricotta, and the dish was lubricated with a generous drizzle of olive oil ensuring it disappeared off my plate by the time my dinner companions had even made a proper dent in their meals.

Click here for Mario Batali’s Penne Alla Norma recipe

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Gelato Paradiso in Noto

It was a baking-hot July afternoon when the six of us piled into our hire car to make the trip south to Noto, around 38 km from Siracusa, our base for the first stage of our adventure across Sicily.

Noto sits at the foot of the Iblean Mountains and was levelled by an earthquake in 1693, with the city gradually being rebuilt throughout the next century. Today it stands as one of Italy’s finest examples of baroque architecture, led handsomely by the Cathedral of San Nicolò di Mira, completed in 1776. In 2002, the town and its stunning sandstone centrepiece were declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

For sweet tooths, however, a visit to Noto takes on a different meaning. Depending on who you believe, and your appetite for gelato, the town is home to two of the finest gelaterie (ice cream shops) on the planet. We didn’t make it to the lauded Corrado Costanzo (Via Silvio Spaventa 7, Noto, Italy, +39  931835243), but judging by the reviews, it’s every bit as heavenly as Caffè Sicilia (Ctr. Madonna Marina, Noto, +39 0931 835013), the site of our gelato-filled indulgence.

Open since 1892, the parlour isn’t short of admirers, either. A browse through its menu reveals gushing accounts from past clientele, many of whom have whiled away an entire afternoon sampling the café’s various delights.

And who could blame them? Our dishes of gelato were first met with salacious ‘ooohs’ and ‘ahhs’ of excitement, before a silence fell over the table as we tucked into the icy treats. It was one of those foodie moments I’ll remember for a long time to come.

Soon the hush was replaced with the clatter of dishes changing hands, accompanied with the insistence of ‘you must try this’, as basilico (basil – the subtle herb flavours balanced perfectly on the palette alongside the leaf’s natural sweetness), Montezuma (rich chocolate paired with orange) and zitrone (perfectly tangy lemon) made their way around the table. It was a blissful experience.

Caffè Sicilia’s cakes are also a sight for sore eyes.

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